Purchasing a weight bench could be a little tasking and expensive. Even at that, the highly expensive ones may not hold as much weight as you would have hoped for or wanted, and the relatively cheap ones may be too weak to serve the intended purpose of purchase.
However, it is possible to build your own weight bench that fits your needs. Moreover, building your own bench is better, especially if it is well constructed.
Building your own weight bench saves you the stress that comes from paying for a bench of inferior quality and also the disappointment of having a bench that does not meet your specified standard delivered to you. In fact, a self-made weight bench could be stronger and sturdier than having to make a purchase. Shockingly, you can do it at a far lesser cost.
Pad-included, the height of a standard weight bench is 17 inches. The bench will have both a ply-wood base and a plywood top and the overall thickness of all the plywood is just a little over 1 inch.
When it is compressed, the pad will be half inch. It is worthy of note that it is better to have a weight bench that exceeds or surpass the standard height than one that falls short of the standard height requirement.
Therefore, the 2 x 4s will be cut into 15 different pieces, each measuring half inch, and another 16 pieces, each measuring 15 and half inch in height. This will help us in assembling the top legs which are quite similar to a miniature I-beam. For ease of cutting, it is advisable to get a miter saw.
Foam padding, wood glue, fabric (could be leather or vinyl), 4 elevator bolts, 2 x 4 studs (at least 5 pieces), 4 pieces of elevator bolts, 4 wing nuts (for fitting the elevator bolts), metal and wood adhesive, staples and decking screws.
The following procedure will help us in the assembly process.
- To assemble the pieces, the first step is to make a ‘T’ out of two pieces
- Through the top of the ‘T’, we mark 3 holes with a scriber or your preferred instrument. These 3 holes should not be towards the end of the 2 x 4, but around the center
- We then drill deeply to Board B through Board A
- Along the face of contact of the two boards, we apply some wood glue and drive 3 screws into the previously-drilled holes. We then clean-off the excess glue from the surface
- Repeat the above procedure to form a second ‘T’ piece
- We will cut 2 pieces of the 2 x 4 that spans the length of the bench. Each would be about 45 inches long (the length depends on the height of the user). Comfort and convenience should be paramount when measuring the length. After cutting the desired length, we also cut two 2 x 4 studs
- We will make holes in the ‘T’ pieces (the top legs) and attach the pieces from step ‘6’
- We then measure 2 inches from the end of Board A and mark a line. From the same end, we measure 4 inches and mark another line. We repeat this process for the other end of Board A. This will help us divide the ends of the board into two sections which we will call ‘’top box’’ and ‘’bottom box’’
- The next step is to drill 4 holes into our ‘T’ piece – two at the top, two at the bottom
- For the ‘’top box’’ in ‘8’ above, we drill 2 holes. One centered on each side of Board B. Do the same for the other end of your T piece. This forms your ‘top box’ T piece
- We take the other T piece and do the same as in ‘10’. However, we use the ‘bottom box’ on this occasion. The importance of these is because the T pieces will be screwing into the same middle board.
- With four holes drilled in our T pieces, we can attach our long runners from step 6. We’re going to start with the bottom runner. To mark the runners, we drive screws into the pre-drilled holes on the bottom of our T piece. Next, we line up the T piece with the bottom runner. The left side of the runner board should be in line with the left side of your T piece. To ensure the straightness of the T piece, we use a level to confirm its level of straightness. Now, we press the T and the runner together by slathering the contact point of the boards with wood glue, after which we drive in our two screws. This gives us one long runner on the bottom, attached to a T piece
- Just like we did with the T piece, we take one of the boards, glue it and screw it to the other end of the bottom riser that is already attached to one T piece at the head end. This procedure is repeated with the top runner
- 2 more of the initial 15 half-inch studs will be used as we need to covert our T to I. As with the T, we will put 3 holes along the length of the board, slather the contact point with glue and drive the screws. Same procedure is repeated with the single 2 x 4 at the foot
- After forming the frame, we put plywood on the base and another layer at the top
- The next step is to decide on a pad size and upholster it. Any preferred foam or fabric will suffice but heavy duty foam used for furniture will be best.